I came across Cebolakhe playing for an audience of one. We were both dawdling along a high, winding mountain road in northern Zululand, he on foot and me by car. We smiled and waved as we passed then both looked back, each intrigued by the other.
I drove around a few more corners then decided to go back. I had time to spare and it looked like he did too. We found each other and a difficult conversation ensued, each of us not speaking the other's language. Music unites and what better way than through South Africa's national anthem. Cebolakhe, perhaps not used to playing requests on his way to buying cooking oil, struggled with a few chords then broke into a recognisable anthem. We chatted and laughed a little more and admired the music and the view. We parted ways with a shaking of hands and another friendly wave, he jiggling over the stones as he played and me jiggling over to a different radio station. But it still wasn't as nice.
